Tinned Goods

Yes, it is indeed sardines. In a tin. A mainstay starter from our autumn menu, Sardines In A Tin is one of those dishes that seems to shine because of, not despite, its apparent simplicity. This is one where the complexity lies in the balancing of familiar, clean flavours and where the fireworks come not from high-falutin’ showmanship but good ingredients treated with respect. In truth the only real theatre here is the use of a tin as a serving device, but this is less a gimmick, more a way of reconnecting with a collective British memory. For many, tinned sardines are (or were) the only kind. Here, with fresh, filleted and soused sardines laid out to rest in a supersized, allium-badged container, the idea remains but the taste is something else.

Complementing the mild tartness of the sardines, the tin also contains a concentration of tomato ‘seeds’, the all-too-often ignored fleshy interior of the fruit that stores to all the umami goodness. And then, running alongside, we have a compound crayfish butter, crisp pain d’épices, salted daikon, and pickled radish. Some greens and a horseradish fluid gel round things out with a little extra bitterness and heat.

A dish, then, that does exactly what it says on the tin. And just a little bit more…

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2 Responses to Tinned Goods

  1. Kristine Cherry says:

    How cool and creative!

  2. Peter Klein says:

    It is just sardines! I don’t get the fuss

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